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The purpose of this paper is to analyze the relationship between the warm/cool feeling of the heat properties of fabrics and the subjective evaluation of the quality of ladies' garment fabrics.

Regression analysis is conducted using stepwise block regression applied to the expert judges' judgment value total hand value, using six blocks of the mechanical properties and one block of the initial maximum values q_max of the heat flux of the heat properties of spring and summer tailored‐type jacket fabrics, as the seven blocks of fabric properties, including the secondary term of each property.

The results of the regression analysis show that the q_max values do not affect the subjective evaluation of the quality of spring and summer tailored‐type jacket fabrics. The results of the regression analysis of ladies' knitted fabric properties applied to the subjective evaluation value have confirmed that the q_max values affect the subjective evaluation of the quality of ladies' knitted fabrics.

This paper usefully describes the relationship between the warm/cool feeling of fabric and the subjective evaluation of the quality of ladies' knitted fabrics.

The purpose of this paper is to examine ladies' linen fabrics produced in different regions – Japan, Italy, and Poland – to ascertain differences in mechanical, thermal, and air permeability properties.

The paper investigates mechanical properties, air permeability, and thermal conductivity. The silhouettes of Polish, Italian, and Japanese linen fabrics are different. The thermal conductivities of the Polish linen fabrics are high. The levels of 72 elements were analyzed and remarkable differences were observed in the levels of 16 elements, including Li, Al, Si, Ti, Cr, Ni, Rb, and Y, Ag, among Polish, Italian linen fabrics, and linen fabrics made in Japan. Another ten elements were detected at some level in either the samples of Polish linen fabrics or linen fabrics made in Japan.

There are differences among the Polish, Italian, and linen fabrics made in Japan, but the differences are not remarkable.

This paper is a wide world regional study of linen characterisation.

Another ten elements are detected at some level in either the samples of Polish linen fabrics or linen fabrics made in Japan. There are differences among the Polish, Italian, and linen fabrics made in Japan, but the differences are not remarkable.

The paper presents useful Measurement instrumentation, analysis and characterisation of linen fabrics from different regions of the world.

Recently, the Polish National Fiber Research Laboratory provided linen samples. In addition to these Polish fabric samples, we also collected linen fabric samples which were made in Japan and throughout Europe. We have investigated hand properties of various linen fabrics, and identification of the Polish linen fabrics quality from those of other linen fabrics. The fabric hand of Polish linen fabrics is unique, it possesses a hand just between wool‐like and cotton‐like fabrics. We have clarified that the Polish linen fabrics are suitable for hari‐type and tailored type silhouette designs for women’s wear, and the fabrics are well‐suited for finishing garment appearance.

Japanese traditional Chirimen fabrics are used for making kimonos, which have a fixed structure and are worn in very particular ways. These fabrics have also been used as dress fabrics in recent years. The purpose of this paper is to investigate the characteristics of the mechanical properties of various types of Chirimen to clarify differences in their hand value (HV) and clothing appearance.

Chirimen fabrics were collected from the largest producing area, the Tango district, plus silk Chirimen and 40 polyester Chirimen samples, resulting in a total of 311 samples. The mechanical properties, HVs, and formability of Chirimen fabrics used for kimono fabrics were compared to those of Western fabrics, and their unique features were clarified.

Values of the weft direction of bending properties of all Chirimen groups, men and women's suit fabrics, and dress shirt fabrics were at the same level. A significant feature of the mechanical parameters of each Chirimen group (excluding logSP which are compound values of bending properties and shearing properties) was that they were in the range for ideal men's suiting zone. HV KOSHI of Chirimen is found to be closely related to the bending properties, thickness and weight of the fabric, and HV TEKASA of Chirimen is found to be closely related to the thickness and weight of the fabric.

This paper clarifies Chirimen's mechanical properties which contribute to traditional subjective evaluation by fabric experts.

Denim fabric has become a wardrobe staple due to its versatility to be worn in a variety of fashions. This paper aims to study denim fabrics to understand their unique hand by developing a hand evaluation system using computational method. Also, the effect of various washes was studied on the hand and surface morphology of denim fabrics.

Five different denim samples were manufactured with various washing treatments. The Kawabata Evaluation System was used to measure the low stress mechanical properties. Computation method was used to develop hand equations using multiple regression technique in the MS Excel software. The correlation coefficient analysis was done to determine the authenticity of the developed equations. Five primary hand attributes such as softness, smoothness, fullness, flexibility and stretchability were shortlisted by a panel of judges that influence the fabric handle.

The correlation coefficient between subjective and computational total hand values with thermal properties and without thermal properties was 0.88 and 0.85, respectively. The enzymatic wash fabric has the highest total hand value followed by the acid, bleach and stone-washed fabrics.

Although the hand evaluation system is available for conventional textiles like suiting and shirting fabrics, the method to predict fabric hand of non-conventional textiles such as denim fabrics remains an unexplored topic. The stresses acting on denim fabrics are completely different. Therefore, to the best of the author’s knowledge, a novel attempt has been made in this research work to develop a computational model to predict the total hand value of denim fabrics.